Services & prices

A full wrap is cast vinyl applied over every painted panel, with the film tucked into the panel edges and around the door shuts rather than cut flush at the seam — that is the difference between a wrap that lasts five years and one that lifts at the corners in a summer. We strip handles, badges, lights and trim where the panel needs it, decontaminate and clay the paint, then wrap panel by panel. Cast films from the recognised manufacturers (the ones that come with a manufacturer warranty) in gloss, satin, matte, brushed metal, carbon, colour-shift and chrome. Because the vinyl is removable, the factory paint is protected underneath and the car goes back to standard colour whenever you want it to — which is usually worth more at resale than a respray.

Not every car needs a full colour change. A gloss black roof and mirror set, a chrome delete on the window surrounds and grille, a bonnet or a set of stripes — these are the cheapest way to make a standard car look deliberate. Chrome delete in particular is the single most-requested job we do: the bright window trim on most modern German and Korean cars is what dates them, and taking it to gloss or satin black transforms the profile for a fraction of the cost of a full wrap.

The plastic trim inserts in most cabins are the giveaway on an otherwise smart interior. We remove the panels properly — not wrap them in situ — and cover them in the same cast film we use on the exterior, so the finish wraps around the edges and clips back in looking factory. Popular in carbon fibre weave, piano black, brushed aluminium and colour-matched to an exterior wrap. Pairs naturally with ambient lighting, and if you are having both done it is cheaper to do them in the same visit because the trim is already out.

PPF is a thick, optically clear thermoplastic urethane film — a different material to wrap vinyl and a different job. It takes the stone chips, road rash and car-park scuffs that would otherwise reach your paint, and light swirls heal out of it with heat from the sun or a hot cloth. Most people protect the front end: bumper, bonnet leading edge or full bonnet, wings, mirrors and headlights. Full-car PPF is available and is what we would recommend on anything with soft paint or a resale value worth protecting. Cut on a plotter to your exact model so there are no blade marks on your paint, with the edges wrapped where the panel allows.

Paint correction is the machine polishing of your lacquer to remove the defects in it, rather than hiding them under a filler that washes out in three weeks. Under proper lighting most cars turn out to be covered in swirl marks from years of sponge-and-bucket washing, plus wash marring, bird-etching and the odd scratch. We wash and decontaminate, clay the surface, tape up the trim and edges, then measure the paint depth before a machine touches it — that reading is what tells us how much lacquer there is to work with and what is safe to remove. Single-stage enhancement takes out the majority of light swirling and brings the gloss back, and is the right call on most daily cars. Two-stage correction cuts harder and then refines, and is what you want before a ceramic coating or on a car being prepared for sale. Anything deeper than the lacquer cannot be polished out by anybody, and we will tell you that rather than burn through your paint chasing it.

A ceramic coating is a liquid glass polymer that chemically bonds to your lacquer and cures into a hard, slick, hydrophobic layer. It is not a wax and it does not wash off — measured in years rather than the six weeks you get from a carnauba. What it actually buys you is gloss that stays, dramatically easier washing because dirt and water sheet off rather than clinging, real UV protection to slow oxidation and fade, and resistance to bird lime and tree sap etching the paint while you are at work. What it does not buy you is armour: a coating is microns thick and will not stop a stone chip or a key. That is what PPF is for, and the two layer together — film on the impact zones, coating over the whole car, which is the combination we would put on our own cars. Coating goes on properly corrected paint only. Sealing swirl marks under a three-year coating is money set on fire, so a correction stage is quoted with it as standard rather than as an upsell at the door.

Painted calipers are the cheapest change that makes a car look expensive, and behind an open-spoke wheel they are on show constantly. Done properly the wheels come off, the calipers are degreased and wire-brushed back to a sound surface, everything that should not be painted is masked — bleed nipples, slider pins, the disc face — and the caliper is coated in high-temperature enamel that will take the heat a working brake generates. Rushed jobs get sprayed in place through the wheel spokes: you get overspray on the disc, paint on the pins, and a finish that flakes off in a winter. Ours are done off the car. Any colour you want, and we can add a manufacturer or brand decal and lacquer over it. If you are having the wheels off anyway it is worth doing at the same time as a wheel refurb or an alloy fit — the labour is already spent.

Professionally fitted film, cut and heat-shrunk to the glass, applied on the inside with the trims dropped so there are no light gaps at the edges. Good film is not just dark: it rejects infra-red heat, blocks essentially all UV (which is what fades and cracks a dashboard), and holds shattered glass together in an impact. We are straight with customers about the law — the front windscreen must let at least 75% of light through and the front side windows at least 70%, which in practice means the fronts stay very light or untinted. Rear side windows and the rear screen have no legal limit, which is where the privacy actually comes from. Use our tint previewer to see each shade before you commit.

A sun strip across the top of the windscreen — plain, colour-matched, or with lettering — fitted above the swept area so it is legal and does not sit in your eyeline. We also apply light smoke film to rear lamps and indicators. Be aware of the trade-off there: lamp tinting reduces light output, and lights must still be clearly visible and the correct colour, so we keep it light and will refuse anything that would leave you with a dim brake light.

Fibre-optic and LED ambient lighting installed the proper way: trim panels out, cable run behind the trim and down the loom, tapped into a switched ignition-live rather than dangling off a cigarette socket, and every join soldered and heat-shrunk. Choose your zones — footwells, door cards, dashboard line, centre console, cupholders, boot — pick static colours or a mode, and control it from an app or a hidden switch. Configure the whole thing on our ambient studio page and you will see the exact combination on screen before you book. We keep the light off the windscreen and out of your night vision, and we do not fit anything that shows red to the front or white to the rear.

The headliner comes out of the car, the fibres are threaded through from the back and trimmed flush at the front, and it goes back in looking factory. Fibre count is the main choice: around 200 for a subtle night sky, 400 for a proper ceiling, 600+ with a shooting-star effect and colour-changing engine. Because the light comes from a single engine in the boot or behind a pillar trim, there is no heat and nothing visible in daylight but a pinprick. Done properly this is a two-day job — anybody offering it in an afternoon is gluing fibres to the underside of your existing headliner.

A retrimmed or replacement steering wheel with an integrated LED rev display across the top and R8-style illuminated rotary buttons on the spokes — the single change that most transforms how a car feels from the driver’s seat. Your original wheel comes off, the airbag and clockspring are handled properly, and the new wheel is coded so the controls, cruise and paddles all work exactly as they did. Available in perforated nappa, alcantara or full carbon fibre top, flat-bottom or round, with contrast stitching to match an interior. We keep the original wheel so the car can be put back to standard.

Front splitters, side skirts, rear diffusers, spoilers, grilles and full kits, supplied and fitted. Most aftermarket kit arrives in raw or primed plastic and needs proper preparation before paint — that is where cheap fitting shows itself six months later when the lacquer flakes off a splitter. We prep, prime and colour-match to your paint code, then fit with the correct fixings and clips rather than tape and hope. We will also tell you honestly when a kit does not fit the car it claims to: the copies of popular kits vary wildly, and some need more filling and reshaping than they are worth.

Badges come off with heat and line rather than a screwdriver, and the adhesive residue is removed with a proper solvent and then the panel is polished so there is no outline left behind. Where a car has faded around a badge we will tell you before we take it off, because on older paint the shadow is in the lacquer and no amount of polishing brings it back. Gloss black badge swaps and blanking plates also available.

Through the International Alloys trade network we supply wheels from the major brands — every one checked against your car’s PCD, offset, centre bore and caliper clearance before a single wheel is ordered. Fitted with hub-centric rings, the correct bolts or nuts for the seat type, torqued to specification and balanced. A new set of wheels is the fastest change you can make to a car, and it is the one most often got wrong: the wrong offset ruins the arch gap and the steering, and the wrong centre bore vibrates at 60mph no matter how well it is balanced. Enter your registration on this site and you will only be shown wheels that actually fit.

Every fitting includes a new rubber valve, computerised high-speed balancing, correct torque to manufacturer specification and disposal of the old tyre. We fit budget, mid-range and premium brands off a live trade feed, so the price you see on this site is the price at the counter. If you are fitting new alloys we will mount and balance the tyres onto them before the wheels ever go near the car.